PURE ORIGINAL INGREDIENTS Borax (1 lb), Multipurpose Cleaning Natural Agent, Ideal Slime Ingredient

I bought this for laundry and I really didn’t consider that the size and weight of it but when it came, it’s about the size of maybe a greeting card envelope which is fine if you wanna use it for something else so I am I’m a middle Smith and in Mimi thing in soldering jewelry, etc. you sprinkle borax on specific types of soldering projects so I’m keeping mine But it’s great for laundry not this too small but if you put this in a bucket of hot water and put your whites inside and soak them overnight like even socks my socks come out looking brand new, which is a big deal to me. You gotta wash them afterwards. It says you can add this to your wash. I don’t do that

I live in Texas. I had an infestation of Florida Carpenter Ants (red head, black body) for over a month. This was one of the key ingredients in my quest to exterminate them. I've written some advice below for anyone else who is suffering from a carpenter ant infestation.Most effective baits I used to get rid of my infestation:TERRO T300B Liquid Ant Killer, 12 Bait Stations (make sure you have scissors to open these, the tabs suck)DIY - Mix Powdered Sugar with Baking Soda, put it in a baggie or a lidDIY - Mix Borax (1.5 tablespoons), Warm Water (1.5 cups), and either sugar (0.5 cup) or some peanut butter. Mix well, and then soak a cotton ball into the mixture.^for this one, I used peanut butter, since I had already set up the baking soda/sugar trap.For all of these traps, you are going to want to place them somewhere near the entrance of where the ants are coming from, out of reach from pets and children. After a few hours, you should start seeing more of them show up. This is because they are hastily working to bring the "food" that they found an abundance of back to their nest. Don't mess with the traps or squish the ants once they start doing this, they are delivering poison to the nest. You can continue killing the ones that are not collecting the bait (e.g. ones that are just wandering around your house--they are either lost or scouting, no reason to keep them alive). Just make sure you throw the dead ants away, so that they don't attract more ants over with their pheromones.If there are locations the ants are falling from, I'd recommend mixing water with dish soap in a (preferably) rectangular bowl with skinny edges, and then placing that under the drop point. This mixture will paralyze the ants and drown them as soon as they touch it. You NEED to use soap--carpenter ants are very good swimmers if the water is not tainted (Dish soap is toxic if ingested, so do not let pets or children near this mixture either).Ants change their mind on what they want to eat every so often, so I'd recommend using all 3 of the baits I listed if you want to get rid of them as fast as possible. If they are not taking any of the 3 baits, there are 2 possibilities: 1) It might be a bad time of the day for them--ants are generally most active at night, and early in the morning; or 2) They are in their mating cycle and have no interest in eating anything. The only advice I can give you for this is, just leave the traps where you had them and wait for them to finish the cycle. If you see winged ants, SQUISH THEM. They are breeders, and they do not collect food.One last piece of advice: Carpenter ants make satellite nests. Their main nest is most likely not in your house--there is a good chance that it is in rotting wood (trees/logs), or in the dirt somewhere near your home's perimeter. Because of this, I'd also recommend looking for an insecticide spray that you can apply to the perimeter. I used "Spectracide Terminate Termite & Carpenter Ant Killer", and while it does work, I would suggest looking for a different one. Its spray pump is VERY annoying to use, and it is electronic, so there is no getting around its tediousness. Just make sure you read up on the insecticide's proper usage before applying it (most of the companies will have a website for this).I hope you found my advice helpful. It took me over a month to get rid of my infestation, since I initially had no clue what I was doing, and was just blindly ordering baits. I felt hopeless, and eventually I called 3 different exterminators... they all tried to get me to do a 1-year "maintenance" contract with no alternatives (over $700!). I spent about $95 trying to get rid of these things by myself. Over half of that money went towards useless bait that they did not care for. If you follow my advice, you will probably be spending under $50.Good luck!

PURE ORIGINAL INGREDIENTS Borax Powder – A Game-Changer for Wood Engraving with Xtool P2 55W CO2 LaserAs a small business owner working with laser engraving and custom designs, I’m always on the hunt for materials that enhance the quality of my work. Recently, I tried PURE ORIGINAL INGREDIENTS Borax Powder for wood engraving using my Xtool P2 55W CO2 laser, and the results blew me away!Application & Ease of UseMixing the Borax solution was simple and hassle-free. I followed a basic method:1. Mixing Ratio: I combined the Borax powder with water until it formed a smooth, consistent solution.2. Application: Using a brush, I evenly applied the solution onto the wood surface and allowed it to dry completely before engraving.The application process was smooth, and the solution adhered well to the wood, prepping it perfectly for engraving.Performance & ResultsHere’s where it really stood out. The Borax powder dramatically improved the contrast and depth of my engravings:• Dark, Crisp Lines: The engraving came out rich, deep black—something that’s often tricky to achieve on wood.• Enhanced Detail: Fine lines and intricate designs showed up beautifully, with increased sharpness and definition.• Minimal Residue: Post-engraving cleanup was simple, with very little soot or residue to deal with.Why It WorksBorax acts as a flux, altering the chemical reaction during laser engraving. It helps carbonize the wood more effectively, resulting in that bold, dark finish without over-burning or damaging the surface.Pros:• Intensifies engraving contrast (perfect deep black marks)• Easy to mix and apply• Cost-effective (a little goes a long way)• Non-toxic and pure—safe for workshop useCons:• Drying time: You need to let the solution dry fully before engraving to avoid steam or uneven burns.• Trial & error: Different woods might require slight adjustments to laser power/speed settings for optimal results.Final ThoughtsIf you’re into laser engraving on wood and want rich, dark engravings without using paints or stains, PURE ORIGINAL INGREDIENTS Borax Powder is a must-try. It’s now a staple in my engraving process, especially for projects that demand high contrast and detail.Pro Tip: Start with medium laser settings and adjust based on the wood type. I found that slightly lower speeds and moderate power gave the best results when paired with the Borax solution.Overall, this product elevated my engraving game, and I can’t recommend it enough for anyone using an Xtool P2 55W CO2 laser or similar machine!

easy to use

I used this mixed with sugar and water to make ant bait. Works very well for that!!

good but small for the price

Exactly like the picture and exactly what I ordered. Im very happy with my purchase. Price was great as well.

The packaging was a nightmare to open. The tab would not pull open I had to use scissors which meant you can’t use the zipper to seal.Check your product before manufacturing and shipping.