RXA-T1 1500 Watt Peak/370w CEA Rated RMS 2 Channel Amplifier Car Stereo Amp

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First order arrived pretty beat up, returned and this one looked better. I didn't think to take pictures as I went, but grabbed a couple post install. This was purchased for my wife's jeep wrangler unlimited. She wanted to retain the stock radio, but the sound quality and volume level were pathetic. This was installed under the driver's seat, with a hand made set of brackets. Bolting to the seat frame and holding it just out of site and off the floor (2 inch plate iron from home depot used, but I would recommend aluminum if I was doing this again. This stuff is overkill, even at 1/8 inch.) The amp fit perfectly this way, wires are far enough under they won't be hit and lots of air flow to keep things cool. As far as performance, using line level input from the jeep radio I didn't expect much. We're running 8 midrange speakers (3 way 6.5 and 2 way 3.5 in soundbar and dash) at 2ohm this amp fits these speakers perfect. They can handle all it offers and scream with beautiful clarity. The sub we choose was a 10 inch bazooka I've had on hand for 10 years plus. Still in box lol. Running off the single channel at 4ohms the amp can easily over power it... and before I even had a chance to break it in, our teens made it bellow smoke on a grocery run. Even with the early abuse, it still provides a very solid thump, enough to perfectly compliment the high end. Loud enough that the wife will not turn it up at all and the sub gain is set at min. She describes it as not being able to see when the bass hits... at some point I may purchase a higher end dvc sub in a decent box and push it enough to heat up this amp, but for now, I don't see it ever sitting down for thermal. Overall, I will likely buy this amp again for my next teens upcoming vehicle. Pretty much perfect for the cost, power output is as expected on front stage, better than expected on sub channel.

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Loving it, working great, no issues with heat or cut outs like I've experienced with other brands. Paired it with a set of T4 rockville slim 10s and wired it in with 4guage OFC cables and 10guage OFC for the speakers. Comes with clear instructions and is easily adjustable. Ran rockville in my past vehicles with good quality and life with little to no issues. Another great product from Rockville

Of course it is more of a budget amp and I've owned a few different amps everything from rocksford fosgate to merlin audio and this is by far the sleekest amp I've had it looks good it's not huge it's just a tad bigger than my merlon 1000w and it pushes every bit of power you could want for a dual subwoofer setup be careful if you don't know much about amps find a youtube video to teach you how because if improperly tuned this amp can destroy your subs as with any powerful amp.

Quite happy with my purchase. I noticed immediately the effort that went into the packaging and detailed information on power ratings and well written instructions, which made you know your getting an American product. The quality of the machining is at which I'd be overjoyed even if I'd spent $300 on the amp, it's quite handsome with perfect brushing on the face paneling and differs shade of powdercoat on the cornerstones. The logo is tasteful with a modern font and design, you'll like the style is what I'm getting at. It has a very decent heft to it and a 50w fuse. There isn't a bass controller feature that their D amp has, which my head and probably most others have anyhow, so a good thing in my eyes. I was replacing an 1100w mono BOSS "Riot Series" amp, which was actually pretty decent for a sub $50 amp(so I thought). The BOSS did not fail at fault of manufacturing, it was under the seat and wife left sunroof open in heavy storm. I couldn't for the life of me find out where the internal failure was with the board, even testing the 8+ transistors. Anyhow when I first hooked up the Rockville amp, I thought I got jipped, barely any movement/sound from my single square "10 Kicker L5 (4ohm DVC). I'm pretty new to stereos but an enthusiast level electronics guy. I wired the speaker every which way possible and bridged the amp and not and researches the settings and all, and still nothing. Well to prevent future flooding incidents, I relocated amp to the trunk, and somehow the BOSS rca cables took a dump. I tried diagnosing this early on with a multimeter reading the output on the head with the output at end of cable and was getting identical reads, still unknown to me where those cables failed, but while waiting for a return to be completed I just bought new RCA's as a last resort and BAM, this thing was hitting like a truck. It was way overpowered at the time, bridged with speaker wired in paralell(technically that's also too low for the amp since bridged cuts the resistance in half again 4ohm DVC / 2 for parallel wiring / 2 for bridging = 1ohm) that's if I am understanding the concept correctly. But long story short, I have a square 10" Kicker in a sealed box, amp unbridged running 2ohms, wattage at about 60% with bass at +4 and low pass at 70hz and it's still honestly a little much, but sounds fantastic, and still have another channel which has me contemplating another sub. I wholeheartedly recommend, I didn't think I'd find anything truly better than what I had unless I ponied up some cash, but it's SO much better in terms of sound quality, output and aesthetics, feel I really found a gem in the bottomless heap of budget amps on the web. I'm confident that you could power most high wattage subs with this amp, it's seems this would be ideal running 2 "10 subs. ONE YEAR UPDATE: Wife got a new Veloster a few months back, for Christmas I went overboard with head units/cams/tint and I vowed a sub install. Small car and wanted to keep space so started with slim powered PowerBass enclosure. Sounded okay, blown before finishing break in. Then built spare tire enclosure with budget low rms Skar and a pyle 1200 watt amp(about 225 bridged at 4), wasn't too bad actually, but as he is still jealous of the high pressures that my tC gets still running the Rockville w/ Kicker l5 10". The Rockville hasn't moved or changed configuration since last Feb, still single channel @ 2ohms about 70% boost up about an 1/8 as it gives it a little more fullness. Running great, very little heat, the single L5 is no problem for the Rockville. Being the nice guy I am, I decided to go all out and build a custom system for her veloster, I enjoy building things and learning something new, she likes to show off shiny things. The Rockville was donated to the build, is running 2-channel Stereo @ 4ohm on 2 10" Pioneer Champion $60 dollar whatever's. I chose the pioneer for several reasons, I wasn't against spending a little more on the subs, but the amp was in hand and the 2x RMS values match the W261d4 just about dead on, the 261 are a hard plastic cone with polymer sound for getting groceries/etc placed on them and the sensitivity of like 94. After a couple days of sadness and then excuberance after seeing how dramatic an out of phase sub steals sound waves, this is a very very impressive setup. Sealed 1.2 enclosures, a Lanzar optix 3 way crossover(initially to boost rca signal from ATOTO android head unit, but the xover is really great actually). The Rockville amp has been in this configuration for a month or so now, and its clearly being pushed to its limits, it gets HOT now but even after an hour of near max(90% on gain with just a teensy turn of boost, filter is fullrange, the gain and low pass and been handed off to the crossover) the AMP although too hot to touch in some instances has never protected and sustained accurate reproduction. I am going to add cooling and just back off a little bit. Its hot, but I don't look down on it, this a sub 100 dollar amp that's settings off every car alarm it passes. Its shocking how affordable huge bass is nowadays. This is a good pair for those pioneers if anyone is shopping for an entire system. So a year later and now being pushed twice as hard, the Rockville is still killing em. I only updated because now my L5 needs a new amp and Rockville is my first stop, funny to see my review first on the list. This time I will likely throw down coin on one of the larger 5 channels, or the mono and separate 4 channel, going to buy another L5 and do a full install on the scion now that I have an excuse to. I plan to remove the bottom plate from the amp and run flush mounted fans on the bottom floor of the amp mount, along with TONS of upgraded heatsink as I love cooling electronics(I'm uber nerdy BTW)and I hope to be back next year giving a two year update. Still the BEST deal on Amazon for an amp, anyone new to car audio and is being overwhelmed with all the claims of these budget amps, please don't think your getting a deal because you found 1000w for 50$, I've bought a tonne of junky junky car audio over the years and have learned that if your amp is claiming anything over 900w and it 60 dollars or less, your not getting more than 150-200w RMS, period....no exception. Getting closer to one hundred dollars is a major jump in quality, output, clarity and customer support. Only good budget amps I've seen are Rockville and Dual, Rockville being significantly better engineered than Dual but at least Dual is pretty honest in publishing numbers unlike all the rest. Keep it up RockVille, everyone is stoked on your amps now and a year ago I couldn't find any info on you guys, you really took a bite out of the market. I'd love to see you get serious about making some quality speakers, maybe contract subs that will pair perfectly for each amp model. Here's some pictures, still love the styling of the RV amp and really liking the more aggressive design of the dB series. Also, I bought a crapload of lower tier car audio stuff I've the last couple months, some of it being pretty good quality stuff, ill be reviewing these item over the coming days since my instal is finally finished