Goodman PCBDM133SAppliance Replacement Partsgoodman Defrost Control Board Part#: PCBDM133S

The terminals for connecting the wiring were easy to access. However, it took some studying to make sure I connected each wire correctly. The terminals were placed differently than on the original circuit board, but were labeled well. The a/c unit has performed fine all the way through a very hot summer!

I was told to order my HVAC Daughter Card from you by my plumber❣️

Exact replacement for current part. My heat pump AC works again. I found a lizard stuck behind the old board which caused it to short circuit. Tips: Turn off all power, both high and low voltage. Take pictures of wireing. Uncrew old board. Use good pair of needle nose pliers and a small flat head screwdriver. Remove and attach one wire at a time. Check pictures. You may need to change a small jumper for defrost timer. Reattach board and make sure everything looks good before turning power back on.

I used this to replace the PCBDM101S defrost board that came on my 13 SEER Goodman heat pump (R22 refrigerant). Like most R22 systems, the old defrost board simply reversed the compressor whenever defrost was initiated. That caused loud compressor noise during the changeover because the pressures had not had a chance to equalize. Newer Goodman heat pumps, with R410A refrigerant, use this PCBDM133S board, which has a built-in delay during changeover. That delay eliminates the compressor noise. To retrofit this board, be aware there are some differences in terminal labels. It will also be necessary to reconfigure the yellow wire that comes from the thermostat. On the R22 systems, the yellow thermostat wire goes through the low pressure switch and then directly to the contactor. On the newer systems that use this defrost board, the yellow wire goes through a high pressure switch (not used here) and then to the defrost board. A separate wire goes from the defrost board to the contactor. You'll need to move/add those. The low pressure switch connects to the defrost board instead of being in series with the yellow wire. I recommend downloading the technical or specification manual for an R410 SSZ14 and the R22 GSH13 heat pump so you can compare the wiring diagrams for the old and new defrost control boards. Also look up the data sheet for an ICM-314, a third party clone of this board. It has a simplified wiring diagram that shows exactly how everything connects.

Wires up completely backwards from an oem. Still works though.

Ordered this for half the price and it was a perfect fit for our unit. Arrived in time and no issues.

I ordered this part specifically because the listing showed an image of the exact OEM part I needed, matching the part number I entered. I did not want an aftermarket or reconfigured version—I needed a drop-in replacement to avoid any wiring guesswork. Unfortunately, what I received was not the part pictured. It was an aftermarket version that required me to stop everything and research how to wire it correctly. The listing made no mention that modifications or reconfiguration would be needed. That cost me time and added unnecessary frustration to what should have been a simple repair. If you're looking for a true OEM replacement, be cautious. This listing is misleading, and I would not have made the purchase if the product shown and described had matched what I actually received.

If you install this yourself, please make sure you turn EVERYTHING OFF! Both the breakers and the thermostat. It's held in by 2 screws. You can pull one wire at a time if you are not familiar with a DCB. Make sure you don't touch other wires or ground anything in the process. Best to remove the original board still wired up, then install the new board and change out the wires. If you are not handy, get a qualified HVAC Tech to do it for you. Cheers!