Pegasus Hobbies Terminator 2 Hunter Killer Tank Model Kit

Now I'm only around 70% through the model, but I've ran into some problems. The only problem I have with this model is the arm assembly. I'm not sure if I just got a head of myself and I needed a break for the day, or it was really a pain to do. The arm assembly is in nine (9) pieces, and you have to fit them just right, but they don't want to hold. Other than that I can not complain about this model. It is a really cool model. Some seam filling will be needed. if you are going to light it. Some light blocking will be needed on the interior parts of the head before you put the head together, and it is too tight to paint in certain areas. Now the measurements for the model from front tread to rear tread is just short of 12 an a quarter inch.Now the width from front tread cover to front tread cover is 9 inches. Height from bottom tread to the top of the head is roughly 8, and a half inches tall. Is this a good model? Yes, it is. Can a beginner do it? Yes, they can. Would it be a good team project for possibly a father/mother, and child? Yes. There are parts where it might be harder for a child to glue together at points, but the adult can easily help. If you are getting this to go with the Aerial Hunter Killer that Pegasus put out it looks great with it, but it looks a little larger than the Aerial HK, but nothing to worry about.Friendly tip Crazy glue is the only glue I came across out of three glues I've tried to glue the tread with. Glue the treads, and slip them over the wheels as the tread link is to short to lasso around, and then glue. Also since the treads are vinyl you could spray them with a clear coat, and then paint them with your enamels, and acrylics over the coat on the treads.I hope this review helps.

First off, let me preface this by saying I'm not building this "stock out of the box" but instead intend to make significant "upgrades" to the model... all of which are easily supported by this kit as shipped.This is a model of the "Hunter Killer Tank" as seen in the flashback sequences in "Terminator 2." There are some sequences in the first terminator movie showing this same era, but this is not seen clearly in those (although it's presumed to be there). In the later Terminator films (and TV series) there are alternative versions of this... similar but not identical... as well as dramatically different designs in some cases. But this is the one you see crushing skulls under the treads in the best of the movie series.It's actually a very well-designed machine. If you've ever built a model kit of a tank, construction of this will be pretty familiar, except of course that most tanks are tan or grey or green, while this is supposed to be something like stainless steel. (It's actually a fictitious metal, but it's a steel alloy, supposedly, as described in the "Sarah Connor Chronicles" TV series). So, you'll need to work on doing high-quality metal finishes to make this look good.It has clear colored parts for the "siren lights" on the head, as well as for the "eye" searchlights. The rest is all a nice, neutral grey plastic, except for the treads, which are rubber and which wrap around rotating rollers on the foot tread mechanisms.There's plenty of hardware in here to allow the thing to actually drive... and I'm thinking about doing that (with an RC controller). In addition to the fully-articulated treadwork, you also have pivoting joints for the head (atop the torso) and the torso (atop the base) and for the two plasma turrets which are in place of "arms" for this particular robot. There are also two "gripping arms" at the front of the torso, but they cannot be made into functional devices without basically rebuilding them from scratch, and I'm not inclined to do that.There's a nice "garage kit" lighting kit already available for this (and for the air-borne variant which Pegasus also offers a model of) which, in this case, includes the "siren lights" in their proper flashing configuration. With some small servomotors for the canon turrets and torso joints, and a decent gearbox and cable-drives for the motive section, I ought to be able to make this into a working scale-model (less the ability to shoot plasma, of course... or to operate without external control!)The build quality is excellent, and takes into account the desire of people like me to do the sort of thing I'm planning to do.The main "drawback" (if you can call it that) is that this is a pretty big model... bear that in mind.

My son loves it!

UPDATE 7/31/18 - Long story short I lost my chrome plated HK tank in a house fire. Years later I have bought another and am in the process of putting it together, with lighting and servos to control the head and body rotation. I tried installing servos for the gun turrets but was unsuccessful due to even nano sized servos not being small enough. I explored all options that I could handle with internet searches for days. Mind you, it can certainly be done but it will look ugly with nearly half of the servo in plain sight after major surgery to get it to fit with the room allowed. But perhaps there are motor options out there that will work that I was unable to locate before I gave up.Overall plan was to use styrene, glue, and white glue in glue gun to get the servos firmly in place for head/body areas. It worked like a charm. Be certain you drill your holes right in the middle of the circle areas that are meant to pop in place to allow rotation and take care not to get glue on the circle snap ins. It will glue everything in place and will no longer rotate whether by you or servo. Also am using slow flash red lights and breathing blue LEDs with optics for lighting effects. It looks great. I desperately tried to recreate the rotating light effect that the tank has for the blue lights in movie scenes but was forced to abandon the idea after trying a sequence flashing system with nano sized LEDS, and pico will not work either. They just won't cooperate. I thought about a different setup for use with fiber optics, which is LEDs on a board flashing in sequence with fiber attached to lead up to head area, and while I would get further with that idea, I know ultimately it will fail plain and simple because there just isn't enough space to allow it and even if you 'force it' with a drill to create the space after gluing everything together(taking a drill and drilling through everything at once after glued in place, it's what I did in order to allow as much blue light as possible to pass through fiber optic 1.4m, do not try to bend fiber around corners(you'll understand when you see it)), you'll never get the optics to cooperate the way they need to to work like in the movie.Breathing leds are more or less a faithful recreation in the sense of the time it takes for a rotating light to rotate around to max it's light output to your eyeballs and as it rotates away and around, it gets fainter to your eyes until it comes back around. It's not a bad alternative to non existent rotating LEDs for models. I only wish mine paused for longer than a split nano second. Try to find breathing leds with at least a second of turning off before it starts again and it'll be perfection. Rig up some styrene half an inch thick with the help of glue, drill a hole into it the length of the LED and for perfect LED fit, then opposite of LED fit have enough styrene in place to drill a hole the same size as your fiber, 1/16 inch deep or longer, round the edges off and use it to perfectly connect fiber to LED with max light feeding into fiber. Use tiny amount of super glue to attach LED and fiber to styrene. Do not smear glue all over LED, just the very base is enough to glue to styrene. Same for fiber, the 'base' gets glue, not the tip.This time around I went with regular version so I can fill in gaps. I have already completed the aerial and it looks far better painted chrome than the chrome version looked, at least in my opinion. Overall I give this kit a 1,000,0000 out of 10 and I can't wait to finish it.>>OLD review, some lack of knowledge on dealing with chrome plating and gluing, apparently you grind off the chrome on areas that require glue with files<<I bought the chrome plated version. Let me just start by saying, save yourself the headache and buy the normal version. The aerial version didn't turn out great. I mean it looks fine and all, but there are rough spots that I wish it had been the normal version so I could putty and close gaps. Lesson learned...However I also bought the tank so now I'm working on that. I'm really hoping it turns out better or at least looks fine in the end. It's alot of stuff to put together. Right now I have put it aside though until my new order of glues come in. The Tamiya extra thin glue just is not working out on the plated kit. I need something thicker. It'd probably be working fine had it been the normal version but the chrome plating I think is preventing the glue from working better. The tracks just will not stay together.Still, I'm rating this on what I expect it will be. It's a high end model kit as far as I am concerned. It's amazingly well packaged. I don't have any real objections with the tank but I think it's pretty clear cut case - I need thicker glue for this kit. The aerial like I said had problems, including one of the engines where the two pieces didn't fit right and one strobe light part was deformed. Currently in contact with PH for replacement parts...I plan on ordering the normal versions of both HKs. I feel that either version is basically exactly the same so my review still stands if you ask me...just be sure to buy this version and not the chrome plated one which as far as I can tell can be only bought direct from PH. The plating is nicely done but...it's really for the person who lacks skills in the paint department. I kind of do regret buying them as someone who finished spending hundreds of dollars a month ago on new airbrush equipment...

Awesome kit, looks the part and can’t wait to build it. Will look good under a coat of allclad metallic paint, I think. Price has come down a bit so better value.

Really good

This is a big kit well worth £60 easy to retro fit lights