LoganPro-framing F300-1 Studio Joiner

I read a lot of reviews on this product that are negative. I experienced the same problems with this joiner as many of the others who are complaining. However, with practice, I find this to be a good product. Don't expect perfect corners immediately - it takes practice. Most of the complaints are that as you are pressing the V-nails into the back, the front is spreading, leaving a gap. The reason is lack of support under the frame, and there is a simple solution for this. Using two pieces of the same scrap frame material, make a simple corner joint, BUT MAKE IT BACKWARDS. The result is that you have a corner with a mirror image contour that you can put under your frame corner to provide overall support no matter where you put the V-nail. Using this method, I rarely use Logan's support bracket that comes with the joiner.Also, watch the calibration of your saw - you MUST check the 90 degree vertical and 45 degree miter angle of the saw with a carpenters square. It has to be perfect; these corners are super-sensitive to very small angle errors. Otherwise you will get joints with gaps no matter how good you are at using the joiner. Don't depend on your saw to remain calibrated forever. With use, it drifts. Check it often. I check mine every 50-75 cuts.And finally, use Logan's suggestion of coloring the edges of the joints with wood stain. It hides minor joint errors. I use a stain pen - it's easy to use and doesn't require opening a can of stain every time I want to join a corner.I've been using the joiner for roughly 6 months - I have no problems getting good joints.

I use a different clamp to hold the picture frame together while gluing then I use this to put the v nails in as it work really well for the nails. But not that great for pulling corners together.

This is the first time I ever used a tool like this and when I simply followed the instructions it worked, but only a couple of issues that aren't too big of a deal, but could be implemented as improvements; 1. The "Molding Spacer" can be improved as all it does is elevate the Corner Clamp from the Base by 3/4" so the moldings aren't touching the Base. So, when you finally push the first V-nail into it, the miter edges of the molding will bend downward because there is no support underneath. A small rubber pad needs to be used to give that support. 2. There are only 2 "Levelers" included, but for large frames, a third "Leveler" needs to be used to prevent any bending at the far opposite corner.I completed a picture frame that was 64" x 42" where I had a make-shift leveler for the far end and I didn't use the Spacer, just a piece of rubber to not only protect the molding but to give it support for the V-nails. Once I did that, everything worked perfectly! When finished, this large frame was a perfect rectangle and solid!! This tool is definitely worth the money, but could use a couple of improvements however, it doesn't prevent you from getting perfectly squared frames.

Product works as intended. Definitely will buy again.

OMG!!! This is one of my BEST purchases to date & one I really had to talk myself into before reality set in & I knew I needed this if I was gonna make picture frames. V easy to set up & the handle to set the “V’s” gave enough leverage making the whole process an easy task. I found the hard wood “V’s” a little easier to set than the soft (though I’m using some sort of pine but it has hard & soft sections- haven’t a clue🙄) Occasionally, I ended up setting 2 V’s rather than 1 as they stick together but that’s operator error.. Joining 12 frames together after the glue dried took a little over 2 hrs. Some of the V’s didn’t set all the way & that was fault of the person who glued the frames together in the 1st place!, me..

Pure junk. The thumb screw that holds the wood pieces together stripped on the first use. It is also not good with textured molding for frame pieces and if you want to make a thick frame it doesn't do that well either. You're better off getting one of the bigger table top models for 20 or 30 bucks more but it will do the job better. I returned it after the thumb screw stripped out and wouldn't hold anymore

This product has an important fundamental flaw. It will not allow you to insert frames larger than 1-1/2" BETWEEN the two vertical posts. The posts are too closer together, therefore for frames larger than 1-1/2" you cannot insert the V nails more than 1-1/2" into the miter corner. You can use frames up to 2-1/2" BUT you will only be able to insert V nails about 1-1/2" inches into the miter. For frames larger than that you should use at least 3 or 4 V nails but this machine will not allow that.

I had occasion to make a number of wainscot trim sets for a restoration project. These were essentially picture frames measuring 24 inches high and various widths from 36 to 48 inches with mahogany strips 1 inch in width. The v nails for soft wood seemed to work the best for the species of mahogany that was being used. Each trim frame has 4 straight pieces and 4 quarter turn curve pieces. In a short time the frames were being made and finish nailed on the wall underneath the chair rail.Support under the corner while it is being fastened seems to be the key to making this machine work well. Don't let the ends of the frame drift upwards while pressing the v nail in or a gap on the face side could be the result.Due to the size of my frame a piece of 1/2" plywood was laid on top of the table (my frame material was thick enough that the included support spacer was not needed) and the frame was band clamped and then nailed in the machine.I looked at a variety of machines but this one seemed to be the simplest, least costly, and the most flexible. A large piece can be run through the posts of the machine and one just needs to align the v nail with the miter cut in the material. I would not say this would be a suitable unit for a frame shop, but rather a good unit for a smaller shop that needs to make a few frames or has a need to make unique wood items.